Have a question about popcorn ceiling removal, stucco removal, skim coating, drywall repair, painting, water damage, asbestos, pot light patches, crack repair or condo ceilings? Browse our complete FAQ — answered by Sony and the Master of Ceilings team from over 15 years of focused experience across Toronto and the GTA.
Most projects in the GTA run $3 to $8 per square foot. Where yours lands depends on the size of the ceiling, whether the texture is painted, whether asbestos testing is needed, the skim coat level you want, and whether you include painting. Every quote is free and in writing within 24 hours.
By square footage of ceiling, not by room. Bigger jobs usually price better per foot, because the setup and protection work is similar whether we’re doing one room or a whole floor.
A single room is usually 1-2 days. A full condo or main floor is typically 3-5 days depending on size, skim coat level and whether painting is included. Most of the time is drying between plaster coats, not the removal itself.
Full floor and furniture protection, dust-controlled removal, multi-layer skim coat, sanding to a smooth finish, cleanup, and a final walkthrough. Priming and painting are optional and quoted separately.
Yes. Painted texture doesn’t absorb water the way bare texture does, so it takes longer to release. It adds time to the job but it doesn’t change the result.
Yes, noticeably. Bare popcorn softens and comes off cleanly. Painted popcorn has to be worked harder, and if it’s been painted several times over the years it’s harder again. We factor that into the quote after seeing it.
Then scraping may not be the practical route. In some cases skimming over the texture gives a better and faster result than fighting layers of paint. We look at it first and tell you which makes sense.
Sanding a popcorn ceiling isn’t the right approach — it creates far more airborne dust and it’s very hard to get an even surface. We remove the texture, then skim and sand the flat surface afterwards.
Almost always. Under the texture there are usually taped seams, minor damage and an uneven surface that was never meant to be seen. The skim coat is what turns a scraped ceiling into a smooth one.
That’s the goal, and it’s why we work carefully rather than fast. Some minor scoring is normal on any removal, and the skim coat covers it. If the drywall underneath turns out to be in poor condition, we’ll tell you before we go further.
Multi-layer plaster, each coat feathered wider than the last, then sanded smooth. Where a Level 5 finish is part of the scope, that means an extra full coat across the whole ceiling.
Optional, and most customers include it. Adding painting means the whole transformation finishes in one project instead of booking a painter separately.
Less than people expect. We cover floors, furniture, walls, doorways and vents before anything starts, and we sand with professional equipment connected to vacuum extraction. Most customers are surprised how clean the house is at the end.
Full containment of the work area, professional Festool and Mirka sanding systems connected to vacuum dust extraction, and protection on every surface that stays in the room.
No. Move small items and anything fragile if you can, and we cover the rest. For an empty room the work goes faster, but it isn’t required.
Most customers do. We seal off the work area and usually work one room or one floor at a time so the rest of the house stays livable.
Yes. Single rooms are a normal job for us. Just know that a freshly smoothed ceiling next to an older textured one shows the difference clearly — some customers end up doing the rest for that reason.
Yes. Whole-house projects are planned room by room or floor by floor so you always have somewhere to live while we work.
Yes. Vaulted and two-storey ceilings need scaffolding and take longer, which affects the price. We assess access during the free quote.
If you want a smooth modern ceiling, yes. Painting over texture just gives you a freshly painted textured ceiling — and it makes future removal harder.
Depends on the ceiling. Removal is the usual route on drywall. Skimming over is often better on concrete, on heavily painted texture, or where the material shouldn’t be disturbed. We look first and recommend honestly.
Usually noticeably so. Textured ceilings trap shadow across the surface. A smooth ceiling reflects light evenly, which is why the difference is so obvious in condos and rooms with pot lights.
Yes, and it’s the sensible time to do it. The ceiling is already exposed and protected, so cracks, old patches and water marks get sorted in the same visit.
Mostly era and weight. Stucco usually means the heavier texture from the 1960s and 70s. Popcorn is the lighter sprayed texture from the 70s through the 90s. “Textured” covers swirl, knockdown, comb and stipple patterns. We remove all of them and finish smooth.
Yes. That’s one of our most common jobs in older Toronto homes. The heavier the original texture, the more plaster it takes to get a flat surface.
Carefully, and with more protection than a light texture needs. Heavy stucco releases in larger pieces and creates more debris, so containment matters more.
Sometimes, and on certain ceilings it’s the better choice. It depends on how thick and sound the existing texture is, what’s underneath, and whether the material should be disturbed at all.
The substrate, the condition of the texture, how many coats of paint are on it, and whether asbestos testing changes the picture. We inspect before recommending either way.
Yes. Paint makes removal slower, and on heavily painted stucco skimming over is often the more practical route. We’ll tell you which we’d do on yours.
It can, but matching old texture around a repair rarely looks right once it’s painted. Most customers prefer we smooth the whole ceiling instead — bigger job, much better result.
We can attempt it, and we’re honest that a perfect match is difficult. Old texture has weathered and been painted over the years, so a fresh patch beside it usually reads differently.
Yes. Stipple is a lighter texture, common in 1990s homes and apartments, and it removes faster and cleaner than heavy 1970s stucco.
Yes. Knockdown is common in 1990s and 2000s suburban builds across the GTA. Same process — remove, skim, sand, finish smooth.
Minor scoring is normal on any texture removal and the skim coat covers it. Heavy old stucco can sometimes hide poor drywall underneath, and if we find that we’ll show you before going further.
Same range as popcorn — $3 to $8 per square foot. Heavier texture takes longer to remove, which is one of the things that moves the price within that range.
Applying thin layers of plaster over an existing ceiling to create a perfectly flat surface. It’s what we do after removing texture, and it’s also how we fix a bumpy or uneven ceiling without replacing the drywall.
After texture removal, after water damage repair, when old seams and patches are showing, when a ceiling is being prepped for pot lights, or when a flat ceiling simply isn’t flat enough.
The highest standard in drywall finishing — an extra full coat of compound across the whole surface, then careful sanding. It’s what holds up under bright and angled light, which is why it matters on a ceiling with pot lights.
Level 4 is the standard finish — fine under normal lighting. Level 5 adds that extra plaster layer and more careful sanding, so the ceiling stays smooth-looking under pot lights and natural light.
On a ceiling with modern pot lights, we think so. Under Level 4 you can often pick out seams and small waves once the lights go on. Level 5 costs a little more and is the difference most people actually notice.
Because they throw light straight down across the ceiling surface rather than out into the room. That grazing light casts a shadow off every ripple and seam. A ceiling that looks fine in daylight can look poor the moment the lights come on.
Two to three on most ceilings, each one feathered wider than the last. More if the surface needs it. One thick coat isn’t the same thing — it shrinks as it dries.
Where the surface needs it, yes. We apply as many coats as the ceiling requires and sand properly to get a flat result — that preparation is the step most often rushed.
Usually, within reason. We build up the low areas in layers until the surface reads flat. If the ceiling is sagging or the framing itself has shifted, that’s a different problem and we’ll say so.
Sometimes. It depends on how thick and how sound the texture is, and whether it’s painted. We check adhesion before committing to it.
Yes, and it’s common work in century Toronto homes. Lath-and-plaster is brittle and needs a gentler hand than drywall — push too hard and you open new cracks beside the one you’re fixing.
Yes. Walls come up most often in older homes with damaged plaster, or after wallpaper removal leaves the surface rough.
Yes — that’s one of the main reasons people ask for it. Seams that have telegraphed through the paint over the years disappear under a proper skim coat.
Each coat generally needs a day before the next one. That drying time is why a proper skim coat job takes several days rather than an afternoon.
Once the final coat is fully dry and sanded. Priming over damp plaster gives patchy results, so we don’t rush it.
Almost always. Replacement means tear-out, disposal, new board, taping and finishing. Skim coating works with what’s already there.
When the drywall is water-damaged through, sagging, or has been patched so many times there’s nothing solid to work with. We’ll tell you honestly if your ceiling is past skimming.
Small patches $150-$300. Medium damage $200-$500. Large damage or section replacement $400-$1,200. Water-damaged drywall $300-$4,500 depending on the area. Several repairs in one visit price better together.
Yes — doorknob holes, anchor holes, picture nails, small accidents. Small repairs are a normal job for us, not something we turn away.
Yes. Larger openings need backing and new board before finishing, but the process and the result are the same.
Yes, and it’s one of our most common calls. The plumber makes the cut, we make it disappear.
es. Once your electrician is finished we patch, plaster, blend and finish the openings they left.
Yes. Vent openings, duct access and equipment cuts all get patched the same way.
That’s the standard we work to. Multi-layer plaster, progressive feathering and careful sanding give a smooth, professionally blended finish. Paint is the other half of it — see the next question.
Because the repair and the surrounding paint are different ages. Fresh paint on one spot of an older wall or ceiling often reads slightly different in sheen and tone even when the plaster work underneath is perfect.
Yes. Seams that have opened or telegraphed through the paint get retaped and refinished properly rather than just filled.
Yes. Failed tape has to be cut out and replaced — covering over it just means the same line reappears later.
Yes. The fastener gets dealt with properly first, then the area is filled, feathered and sanded.
Yes. Damaged corner bead is cut out and replaced, then finished so the line reads straight again.
Yes — furniture knocks, door handles, moving damage. Small ones are quick jobs.
Yes, and it’s the sensible way to do it. One setup, one protection, better price per repair than booking them separately.
Depends on the condition. Minor damage patches fine. Saturated, swollen or sagging board gets removed and replaced before finishing.
Yes. Both come up regularly, often after moisture issues or storage damage.
Yes. Anchor damage from mounts and shelving is one of the most common wall repairs we do.
Optional. We can finish the repair ready for your painter, or prime and paint it ourselves as part of the job.
Small cracks $200-$400. Water damage $300-$4,500. Pot light patches $80-$150 each. Sagging sections $500-$2,000. Full replacement $3-$8 per square foot. Free written quote within 24 hours.
Cracks, holes, water stains, sagging drywall, failed tape, damaged plaster, pot light and trade openings, and full section replacement when the damage is beyond patching.
Yes. Ceiling holes need backing and proper support because gravity works against the repair — it’s a different technique from wall patching.
That’s what we aim for. Multi-layer plaster, careful feathering and sanding get the surface right. Whether the finished area disappears completely also depends on the age and sheen of the existing paint.
Yes. First we establish why it’s sagging — moisture, age, or poor original installation — then repair it so the same thing doesn’t happen again.
Most often moisture, which softens the board and lets gravity do the rest. Age and inadequate original fastening are the other common causes.
Usually yes. We remove the affected area, install new board where needed, and blend the repair into the existing ceiling.
When damage is spread across most of the surface, when the board is saturated through, or when repeated patching has left nothing solid to attach to.
Yes. Showing seams get retaped and refinished, often with a skim coat across the area so the line doesn’t reappear.
Yes. The failed tape is removed, replaced and refinished — not covered over.
Yes. Once the plumbing is finished and the area is dry, we handle the drywall and finishing.
Yes, and it’s specialist work. Lath-and-plaster in century Toronto homes is brittle and needs a different approach from drywall.
Yes. Where there are a number of visible old repairs, skim coating the full ceiling often gives a far better result than adding another patch.
Yes, and it’s a common request. A cracked or stained ceiling is one of the first things a buyer notices in listing photos.
Both. Textured repairs are worth a conversation first though — matching old texture around a patch rarely looks right once painted.
Find and fix the source first — that’s the part that matters most. Once the leak is repaired by the right trade and the area has dried, call us and we’ll assess what the ceiling needs.
Yes. Repairing a ceiling over an active leak means paying twice. We’ll always confirm the source has been dealt with before we start.
No. We repair ceilings, not plumbing or roofs. If we can see where the water is likely coming from we’ll tell you and point you to the right trade, but the source has to be fixed by someone qualified for it.
Yes. Once the plumbing is fixed and the area is dry, we remove damaged board, replace what’s needed, plaster, sand and finish.
Yes — it’s the most common cause we see in two-storey homes. Same process: confirm it’s fixed, confirm it’s dry, then repair properly.
Yes. Coordinating with the other owner, the building and their plumber is usually part of it. We repair the ceiling once the source is sorted.
Water carrying minerals and residue through the board and drying at the surface. The stain is the mark left behind, not the damage itself — there’s usually more wet area than the stain shows.
Yes. The area gets sealed with a stain-blocking primer before painting. Without that step the stain bleeds back through.
Because it was painted over without being sealed first. Regular paint doesn’t block the residue — it soaks through within weeks or months.
No. If the board dried out and stayed firm, sealing and refinishing may be enough. If it’s soft, swollen or sagging, it comes out.
Condition, not appearance. Board that’s still firm and flat can often stay. Board that’s soft to the touch, bulging or separating at the seams has to be removed.
The sagging section itself needs replacing — plaster won’t fix drywall that has lost its structure. We remove that area and rebuild it.
Until it’s actually dry, which depends on how much water got in and how well the space ventilates. Repairing over damp board means the repair fails.
It can, where material stays wet. We’re ceiling specialists, not mold inspectors — if we see something concerning during the assessment we’ll tell you and recommend having it properly assessed before we proceed.
Only with a proper stain-blocking primer first, and only if the cause is fixed and the area is dry. Paint alone won’t hold it back.
Yes. Older plaster behaves differently from drywall when it gets wet, and often more of it has to come out than you’d expect.
Yes. We take before, during and after photos and give you a written record of the work so you have a clear file on it.
When the damaged area covers most of the ceiling, when the board is saturated through, or when patching would leave you with more repair than original surface.
$60-$150 per light. There’s a minimum service charge on a single patch, and several lights in one visit price better per hole.
Yes. Removing a light leaves the same kind of opening as installing one. We close it, blend it and finish it.
Yes — it’s one of our most common jobs. The electrician makes the cuts, we make them disappear.
No. We’re ceiling specialists, not electricians. Electrical work has to be done by a licensed electrician. Once they’ve finished, we handle all the patching, plastering, sanding and finishing.
es. Relocating a fixture leaves an opening at the old position — we close and blend it so there’s no trace of where it used to be.
Yes. Cuts that came out bigger or more ragged than intended just need backing behind them before patching. It happens more often than people think and it’s a normal repair.
Yes, and that’s the efficient way. One setup, one protection, better price per light.
Because pot lights throw light straight down along the ceiling rather than out into the room. That grazing light shows up every ripple. A patch that looks perfect in daylight can show the moment the lights go on — which is why the patch needs careful feathering, sanding and a finish that blends with the surrounding ceiling.
Yes. Plumbing access, duct openings, sprinkler work, security wiring, speaker cuts — all the same kind of repair.
Not always. If the ceiling is fairly new and we can match the paint, we spot-paint the repair. On an older ceiling the paint has aged and a fresh spot will show, so the full ceiling gives a better result. We’ll tell you which yours needs.
Yes, though it’s worth a conversation. Matching old texture around a patch rarely looks right. Many customers use the opportunity to smooth the whole ceiling instead.
Yes. Condo ceilings are often concrete, which needs a different technique from drywall, and building rules on hours and access apply. Both are normal for us.
Anywhere from about $200 for a single hairline crack up to around $2,000 for a room with extensive cracking. It depends on how many, how large, and whether skim coating the whole ceiling makes more sense than individual repairs. Free written quote before anything starts.
Temperature and humidity swings through the year, normal house settling, drywall tape that has failed over time, and stress around door and window openings. Older plaster ceilings crack simply from age.
Usually because it was filled and painted over without being opened up, reinforced and built back in layers. A thin skim of filler shrinks as it dries and the line shows again within a year.
Yes — opened out, taped, built up in multiple feathered layers and blended. That’s a genuinely different repair from a quick fill, and it holds far better.
No, and we won’t pretend otherwise. If it’s normal movement or failed tape, a proper repair holds. If the house is still moving, the crack can return no matter how well it’s repaired — and we’d rather tell you that at the quote than after.
Usually seasonal movement — framing expands and contracts with humidity through the year. It’s one of the most common cracks in GTA homes and it repairs cleanly.
In most homes, yes. Thin lines from temperature change and normal settling are cosmetic. Width, length and whether they’re changing are what matter more than their presence.
If it’s widening noticeably, if it’s long and diagonal, or if it comes with doors sticking or floors feeling uneven. In that case have it looked at by the right professional before any cosmetic repair. We’re ceiling specialists, not engineers, and we’ll say so.
Yes, and it’s different work from drywall. Lath-and-plaster in century homes is brittle — press too hard and you open new cracks beside the one you’re fixing.
The older system found in pre-1960s Toronto homes: plaster applied over wooden lath strips rather than over drywall board. It cracks differently, repairs differently, and needs a gentler technique.
Often yes, if the plaster is still keyed to the lath around it. Where it has separated completely, that section usually has to come out.
Yes, once the cracks themselves are properly reinforced. Skimming over unreinforced cracks just hides them until they reopen.
It depends on how many there are, how far apart, and the general condition of the ceiling. Where cracks are spread across the surface, skimming the whole thing often costs similar and gives a far better result. We’ll tell you which we’d do.
Yes, and it’s why cracks often show most in winter. Dry heated air shrinks framing and drywall slightly, opening lines that close up again in summer.
Yes. Settling cracks are common in older GTA homes. The repair holds well once the settling has slowed.
Sometimes. The repair itself needs priming and painting. Whether that blends into the existing paint depends on how old the paint is — we’ll be straight with you about it.
We use quality professional paint selected to suit the surface and the project. For ceilings that’s normally a flat finish, which gives an even look and doesn’t highlight small imperfections.
Yes, it’s included in the quote. If you have a specific colour or product in mind, tell us at the quote stage and we’ll work with it.
$1.50 to $3 per square foot as an add-on to ceiling work. Walls, trim and doors are quoted separately based on the scope.
Usually. Flat hides small imperfections and doesn’t reflect light unevenly. matte , Eggshell and satin belong on walls, Satin or semi-gloss on trim and doors.
There’s a real difference between whites — some read cooler, some warmer. We bring samples and look at them in your actual light, because a white that looks right in a store rarely looks the same at home.
Where the surface calls for it — bare plaster, a repaired area, or anywhere there’s a stain to seal. Primer is what stops a repair reading differently from the rest of the ceiling.
Fresh plaster absorbs paint differently from the surrounding painted surface. Without primer the repaired area soaks up the coat and shows through as a patch.
Two full coats on a ceiling as standard, with primer where the surface needs it. One-coat painting is where corners get cut — it never covers evenly.
It’s called flashing — the repair absorbs and reflects light differently from the older surrounding paint. Proper priming prevents most of it. On a much older ceiling, painting the full surface is the reliable fix.
Depends on the space. Spraying gives a smoother finish on a large open ceiling; rolling is better in occupied rooms where overspray is a problem.
We can colour-match closely. On older paint that has faded we’ll tell you honestly whether the match will be good enough or whether the full surface is the better call.
Yes — walls, trim, doors and baseboards. Many customers do the whole room while the protection is already down.
Generally same day or a day after the final coat. Priming over damp plaster gives patchy, unreliable results, so we don’t rush it.
Always, before anything opens. Floors, furniture, doorways and vents get covered as the first step of the job.
Yes, and most customers do. The room is already protected, so painting at the same time saves booking a separate trade.
Yes. Downtown high-rises, waterfront towers, Square One in Mississauga, VMC in Vaughan and condo communities across the GTA.
Yes, though the method depends on what’s underneath. Drywall ceilings can be scraped. Concrete ceilings usually call for a different approach — we inspect first and tell you which yours needs.
Yes. On concrete we generally build a smooth surface over the existing texture with multi-layer plaster bonded properly to the slab, sanded and finished to a smooth, flat surface. The finished result looks the same as a house ceiling.
Concrete is non-porous, so it needs specific preparation and bonding before finishing material will hold. Standard drywall methods aren’t reliable on it. It’s the main reason condo owners call a specialist.
Yes, with the right preparation. We assess the existing surface before recommending it, because the coating already on the concrete affects what will bond.
Yes. Once the source is fixed and the area is dry, we repair the ceiling. Coordinating with the other owner, the building and their trade is usually part of it.
Yes. On concrete ceilings these need a different technique from drywall, which is exactly the work we do.
Yes. Tell us the hours and we plan the schedule to them. Most downtown buildings restrict work to weekday windows and we build that into the timeline.
Yes. We provide the certificate of insurance and WSIB clearance whenever your building or property manager requires it.
Yes. Written scope, timeline and documentation go to your property manager directly so you’re not stuck in the middle.
Requirements vary by building. Many require approval for renovation work; some don’t for minor repairs. Check with your property manager, and tell us what they need — we’ll provide it.
That depends on the building too. Some require a service elevator booking for any contractor work. If yours does, tell us and we’ll work to the booked window.
No. Empty is faster, but we protect whatever stays. For a turnover between tenants it’s usually empty anyway.
Most customers do. We seal off the work area, control dust, and usually work one room at a time so you keep somewhere to live.
Containment of the work area plus professional sanding equipment connected to vacuum extraction. Most of our work is plastering and sanding rather than demolition, which helps considerably.
It depends on square footage, the finish level, drying time between coats and the building’s work hours. We give you a realistic timeline at the quote rather than a stock answer.
Yes, and we do a lot of it. Tell us the date it has to be ready and we work to it — removal, smooth finish and paint in one booking.
Yes. We can coordinate access, send photos as the work progresses, and deal with management directly if you’re not local.
Older ones can. It was used in ceiling texture products for decades, which is why age matters when deciding whether to test.
Older textured ceilings are worth testing before they’re disturbed, particularly where the original ceiling has never been redone. The age of the home alone can’t confirm whether asbestos is present — it’s a reason to test, not a conclusion.
No, and nobody can. Appearance, colour and texture don’t tell you what’s in the material. Testing is the only way to know.
If there’s a reasonable chance of asbestos, yes. Testing first is cheap and straightforward compared to dealing with it afterwards.
We collect a small sample and send it to an accredited Ontario laboratory. They analyse it and issue the result.
An accredited laboratory that analyses building material samples. Results usually come back within a few business days.
Yes. The laboratory issues an official certificate showing the result. We pass it straight to you — it’s your document. We also give you a written record of any work we do.
$150 to $300 per sample depending on the laboratory and turnaround. We arrange it so you don’t have to find a lab yourself.
We walk you through the options honestly. Encapsulation is often suitable — sealing the material under multi-layer plaster and a smooth finish rather than breaking it up. Full removal is a different category of work, handled by certified abatement specialists.
No. Disturbing the material is exactly what creates the risk. That’s the whole reason testing comes first.
Testing tells you what’s there. Encapsulation seals the material in place under a new finished surface. Abatement is full removal, which is regulated work requiring specific certification.
No. We are not certified for Type 3 asbestos abatement. We provide testing and encapsulation only. If full removal is needed we refer you to a certified specialist we trust — we don’t pretend to do work we’re not qualified for.
No. It depends on the condition of the ceiling, what’s already on it and the situation in the home. We assess first and tell you if yours isn’t a good candidate.
The risk relates to material being disturbed and released into the air. Left intact and properly sealed, that isn’t happening. That’s the principle behind encapsulation — but the decision should follow a test result, not a guess.
No. Paint doesn’t remove anything. It also isn’t the same as encapsulation, which builds a proper sealed surface over the material.
No. A home inspector may flag that a ceiling is of an age worth testing, but they don’t analyse the material. Only laboratory testing gives you an answer.
Yes. Once certified abatement is finished and the space is cleared, we handle the drywall, plaster and finishing work.
Square footage, ceiling height and access, the condition of what’s underneath, whether the texture is painted, the finish level you want, whether asbestos testing is needed, and whether painting is included.
Yes. Vaulted, two-storey and high ceilings need scaffolding and take longer, which shows in the quote.
Usually, because it takes longer to release. The material cost doesn’t change much — the labour does.
It affects setup time more than price. An empty room is quicker. We cover and work around whatever stays.
Yes. A ceiling that’s sound underneath needs less building up. If we find poor condition once the texture is off, we’ll show you and discuss it before continuing.
Only if you ask for it. We quote it separately so you can see exactly what it adds.
Yes. Quotes include materials and labour. There are no hidden material charges afterwards.
Photos help us give you a rough idea and decide whether it’s worth a visit. For an accurate written quote we need to see the ceiling in person.
Yes, anywhere in the GTA, with no pressure and no obligation.
Within 24 hours. Written quotes follow within 24 hours of the visit.
Always. In person, in writing, with no hidden fees.
Move small and fragile items out of the room if you can, and clear a path to the work area. We handle the protection of everything else.
No. Anything you can move out helps the job go faster, but it isn’t required.
Floors, furniture, walls, doorways and vents are covered with professional protection materials before any work starts.
It depends on size, finish level and drying time between coats. We give you a realistic timeline before starting rather than a number that sounds good.
Yes, and it’s the cheaper way. One setup and one protection covers multiple repairs.
Yes. On larger projects that’s usually how we plan it so you always have somewhere to live.
Yes. Thorough cleanup and a final walkthrough together before we close out the job.
We stop and show you. Nothing extra gets done without you knowing what it is and what it costs.
For most jobs we ask for a small deposit to book your date. The rest is paid during the work and at the end of the job. All payment details are written in your quote before we start, so there are no surprises.
Since 2010. Over 15 years focused on ceilings only.
Sony owns and runs it. When you call 647-972-4858, you’re talking to the owner.
Yes. There’s no call centre and no sales team. You deal with the person doing the work.
No. Sony is on every job site personally with his own team.
Fully insured and WSIB covered. We provide proof whenever a building or property manager requires it.
Drywall Finisher and Plasterer is a recognized non-compulsory trade in Ontario, meaning no licence is required to perform it. Master of Ceilings is fully insured and WSIB covered. We don’t do electrical, plumbing or structural work, and we’re not certified for Type 3 asbestos abatement — when a job needs one of those, we say so and point you to the right person.
Our work is focused on ceilings, drywall repair, plastering and related finishing, which gives us specialized experience with these surfaces. Fifteen years on one type of work means we’ve seen most textures, most eras of construction and most of the ways a ceiling fails.
Toronto and the entire GTA. See the service area list at the bottom of this page for the cities we cover.
Yes. Century homes, lath-and-plaster ceilings and pre-1975 construction are regular work for us.
Yes. Concrete ceilings, building rules, occupied units and property management coordination.
Yes. We provide documentation directly and coordinate access so the owner isn’t the middleman.
Yes. A single patch or one crack is a normal job. Not everything needs to be a full renovation.
Yes. Whole-house ceiling work planned room by room so you can keep living there.
Our focus is existing homes and condos — removal, repair and refinishing. New build drywall from scratch isn’t what we specialise in.
Yes. Every project includes a 1-year written workmanship warranty.
Defects in our workmanship — a repair that fails, a patch that shows, a finish that isn’t right. It doesn’t cover new water damage, structural movement or other conditions outside the work we did.
Our Before & After Gallery has real projects from GTA homes — no stock images.
Google and HomeStars. Both are linked from this page and every service page.
Yes. Alongside ceiling work we paint interior walls, doors, door frames, trim and baseboards. Most of it comes as part of a ceiling or drywall project, but we take standalone interior painting too.
Yes. Doors, frames and casings are usually done together so the colour and sheen match across the opening. They take longer than walls because of the number of surfaces and edges.
Yes. Baseboards, casings and trim are painted with a harder-wearing finish than walls, since they get knocked, scuffed and wiped more often.
Yes, and it’s usually the sensible way. Doing it all in one project is more efficient because the room is already protected and prepared.
Yes. Minor filling, sanding and surface preparation is included in the painting scope. Larger drywall or plaster repairs are quoted separately. Painting over a damaged wall just gives you a freshly painted damaged wall.
Yes. Nail holes, anchor holes and small dents get filled and sanded flat before any paint goes on.
Where the surface needs it — bare drywall, a repaired area, a stain to seal, a big colour change, or a glossy surface that needs something to grip. On a sound previously painted wall that isn’t changing much, primer often isn’t necessary.
Yes, though it usually needs a primer coat or an extra finish coat to cover properly. We’ll tell you at the quote whether your colour change needs that so there’s no surprise later.
Yes, with the right preparation. Glossy surfaces need to be deglossed or sanded and given a compatible primer, otherwise the new coat won’t bond and will peel later.
Yes, but it has to be done properly. Older trim and doors in Toronto homes are often oil-based, and putting latex straight over it without the right preparation and a compatible bonding primer leads to peeling. We check before starting.
Yes — it’s a common request in older homes. Varnished trim needs sanding or deglossing and a bonding primer first. Once that’s done properly the finish holds well and it transforms a room.
Walls usually take a flat, matte or eggshell finish. Doors, trim and baseboards get something harder — satin or semi-gloss — because they need to be wiped clean. Flat hides imperfections; gloss shows them but wears better.
Ceiling first, then walls, then trim and doors last. Working top down means any drips land on surfaces that haven’t been finished yet.
Yes, and the wall almost always needs work first. Wallpaper removal leaves adhesive residue and damaged paper face on the drywall. We skim, sand and prime it before painting so the finish is flat.
Yes. We move what we can, cover the rest, and work room by room so you always have somewhere to be.
Yes. Tell us the date it has to be ready and we work to it. For rental turnovers and pre-sale repaints we can coordinate directly with your property manager or realtor if you’re not local.
Because the original paint has aged — the sheen has changed slightly and the colour has shifted with light exposure. A perfect colour match from the same tin can still read differently. On an older wall, painting corner to corner is usually the only way to make it disappear.
Yes. Drywall repair and painting can be quoted as one project, so the repair and the final paint finish are coordinated together rather than handed between two trades.
The number of rooms and surfaces, how much repair and preparation the walls need, whether doors and trim are included, how big a colour change it is, and ceiling height. We give you a written quote after seeing it.
Hi, I’m Sony. I founded Master of Ceilings in 2010 with one mission: bring true European craftsmanship to Toronto homes.
For over 15 years, my team and I have transformed thousands of outdated popcorn ceilings into clean, smooth, modern finishes — across Toronto, Mississauga, Vaughan, Markham, Richmond Hill, Oakville, Burlington, and the entire GTA. I’ve worked in century Cabbagetown homes with century-old plaster. I’ve handled asbestos encapsulation in 1970s Bayview Village. I’ve smoothed condo ceilings near Yonge & Bloor and luxury King City estates. Every home teaches me something new.
“I treat every home like it’s my own. If it’s not perfect, I don’t leave.”
I’m on every job site personally. No subcontractors. No shortcuts. Just clean work, fair pricing, and ceilings that last. When you call 647-972-4858, you talk to me. When my team arrives, I’m there. That’s how Master of Ceilings has been since day one, and that’s how it stays.
“Have a question we didn’t answer? Call Sony directly 647-972-4858 or email contact@masterceiling.ca. We respond to
every question personally within 24 hours.”
For more details on specific services, visit:
647-972-4858
contact@masterceiling.ca
